Eco-Renovation UK Heritage Insulation Specialist
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Insulating old buildings in natural, sympathetic materials

Insulation? It's certainly our biggest speciality. Internal or external wall insulation, upgrading floors or roofs, a single room or a whole house, we'll find an ecological way that suits the building. With over 200 insulation projects behind us, the challenging ones are the ones we enjoy most.

Ask us for a quote

If you have a clear idea of what you need.

See our insulation projects

Photographs of jobs like yours, from start to finish.

PhotographInsulation going in under a roofInsulation going in under a roof
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“Eco-Renovation recently carried out some internal insulation works at our Victorian property, and we are very happy with the work. They were reliable, clean and tidy, and the works were done to a high standard. They were very well organised and we were kept informed of everything throughout the process. I would highly recommend them!”
Sam R

The materials we use

We work in materials that let vapour through, such as wood fibre, cork, hemp, lime and clay, because that's what these buildings have always done and they seem happier left to carry on. Most of it is grown rather than manufactured.

Finding the most suitable method and material for your building is crucial if you want the best long-term benefit, and to avoid putting the structure at risk, which can even make the insulation work redundant.

Wood fibre board
Walls, roofs and floors. Rigid, pleasant to work with, and it buffers moisture.
Cork-lime insulating plaster
Diathonite Evolution, for walls too uneven to board. Inside or out, sprayed or by hand.
Hemp and hempcrete
Cast around timber frames, and in walls and roofs.
Blown cellulose
Warmcel, from recycled newspaper. Blown into timber structures.
Lime and clay plasters and renders
The finish that lets everything underneath carry on working.
Foamed glass
Under limecrete floors.
Jute
Roofs and lofts, often alongside wood fibre.
Cork board and sheep's wool
Both of which we use and will happily fit.
Silicate paints
So the decoration doesn't undo the insulation.

What we don't put on a solid wall

Cement render, gypsum plaster, and foam or PIR board. We don't keep any of them on the van.

The importance of getting the details right

In insulation work, the hard part isn't fitting the boards. It's everything around them. To make the job work in the real world rather than just on paper, a great many details have to be thought through: keeping thermal gaps to a minimum, letting vapour move, cutting out uncontrolled air infiltration, and supporting the ventilation.

So it matters that there is a sound answer for the intermediate floor junctions, the ceiling edges, the floor to wall junctions, the socket boxes, the radiator pipes or underfloor heating, the cable runs, the window reveals and sills, and the rest of it.

We won't pretend we've seen it all - old buildings can always reveal a detail that's new to us. But with more than 200 insulation projects behind us, we've probably come across it before. What we do promise is to stick with it until we're confident we have an answer for every detail - and then get it right.

Ask us for a quote

If the build-up is already decided.

Book an insulation survey

If these are the questions you'd like answered, that's exactly what the survey is for.

Where it goes

Every element can be insulated. Which way, and with what, is the part worth thinking about.

External wall insulation

Wrapping the outside keeps the masonry warm inside the thermal envelope, with no disruption to the rooms indoors. It's what we'd choose wherever the elevation allows it.

Whether it's possible, and which materials are most suitable, depends on a number of details worth discussing.

The details always need a thought-through design and careful execution: the window reveals and thermal bridging, the junction with the roof and the soffit, the cables and outside fittings, the garden tap, the waste pipes, and so on. The aim is always the same - insulation continuity, with as little compromise as possible.

See our external wall insulation projects →
PhotographWood fibre boards fixed to the outside wall, before renderingWood fibre boards fixed to the outside wall, before rendering

Internal wall insulation

We use internal wall insulation when external wall insulation isn't an option, or when the house is undergoing internal changes or an overhaul that affects the walls and plaster anyway.

Which material suits best depends on a number of factors: how even the wall is, how much of the room you're willing to give up, and what happens where it meets the floor, ceiling, window reveals, sockets and radiators.

See our internal wall insulation projects →
PhotographInsulation boards fixed to the inside of the wallsInsulation boards fixed to the inside of the walls

Floor insulation: suspended or solid

Insulating a suspended timber floor is very different from insulating a solid floor. The right build-up depends on what's already underneath, whether you want underfloor heating, and the required finished floor level - something that's rarely a free choice in an old building.

See our floor insulation projects →
PhotographFoam glass aggregate going down in a floorFoam glass aggregate going down in a floor

Roof and loft insulation

Between and under the rafters if you want the roof space warm, or at ceiling level if you don't. It makes the biggest difference of all in a heatwave, which people don't always expect.

The right build-up and the most suitable materials depend on a few details, like how the roof is ventilated, what the rafters will take, and what the internal finish will be.

See our roof insulation projects →
PhotographInsulation between the rafters, seen from aboveInsulation between the rafters, seen from above

Our favourites

Four we come back to again and again, and why.

Diathonite Evolution

A lime, clay and cork insulating plaster that goes on wet, so it finds its way into every hollow of an uneven wall and leaves nothing behind it. It works inside or out, sprayed or by hand, and it's thin for what it does, which is why it's often the solution where space is tight.

We've been using it for over a decade and we're approved installers.

More about Diathonite → See Diathonite on our projects →
PhotographDiathonite being sprayed onto a solid wallDiathonite being sprayed onto a solid wall

Wood fibre boards

Rigid boards for walls, roofs and floors, and the build-up we'd choose where the wall is flat enough to take them and there's depth to spare. They buffer moisture rather than blocking it, and they're pleasant to work with.

The flexible version of the same material goes between joists and rafters.

PhotographWood fibre boards on the walls and ceilingWood fibre boards on the walls and ceiling

Warmcel cellulose

Made from recycled newspaper and blown into timber structures, so it fills awkward shapes and corners better than anything that comes in a board. Quick to install once the structure is ready.

We're approved installers with PYC.

PhotographCellulose being blown inCellulose being blown in

Hempcrete

Hemp and lime, cast around a timber frame or applied on walls. It insulates and regulates moisture well, and it locks carbon into the building rather than giving it off.

Also available in blocks, which we use for building extensions.

See our hempcrete projects →
PhotographHempcrete being laid by handHempcrete being laid by hand

Things people often ask

How far should we take it?
There's a version of this work that pushes for the highest standard going, with very thick insulation everywhere and tested airtightness at the end. It is doable; it usually needs a well-written design. On most old buildings, though, what we aim for is a bit short of that: the point where the building is a great deal warmer, much better in a hot summer, and still recognisably itself.
Which is better, inside or outside?
As a rule of thumb we'd recommend outside, wherever the building allows it, to keep the masonry inside the thermal envelope. Less risk of condensation, less compromise. When the façade has detail worth keeping, or the rest of the work is happening indoors anyway, we lean towards insulating internally.
Can a listed building be insulated?
Usually yes. What changes is which materials suit and whether consent is needed. More about listed buildings →
Is it worth insulating if we're having a heat pump?
It generally helps a great deal, because a heat pump runs at a lower flow temperature and does better in a building that's already lost less heat. Doing the fabric first also means the unit can be sized on the insulated building rather than the old one.
Do we have to move out?
Not usually. A lot of our work is done a room or an elevation at a time with the family still in the building. The site gets cleared at the end of every day.
Will you do one or two rooms?
Yes, and a good many of our jobs are exactly that. Insulating a room's walls, floor and ceiling will make that room comfortable once and for all - and we'll usually do it with the next stage in mind, for whenever you carry on.

Shall we come and have a look?

If you already know what you'd like done, send us the details and we'll price it. And if you'd rather talk it through with somebody in front of the building first, that's what the survey is for.

£180 + VAT. If the project goes ahead with us, we take it off the final cost of the work.